In Ljubljana

Hello!

I am tired so writing in brain dump mode on euro kezboard with the z where the whz should be.

After Sighisoara took train back to Bucharest for two days. Bucharest after being in the Transylvanian country is a shock. Our cab driver at the Bucharest train station knows not of our hotel - his friend speaks english and explains where it is then takes a moment to warn us our hotel is in a bad area with lots of gypsies who make it unsafe. we find this not to be the case - fortunatelz. however, the hotel is the epitome of tacky. red decor all over the place, a shower like a cylander with a radio, black light, and water spouts going in all directions, including a bodet (sp?) that does nothing useful. water leaks out of the shower and collects in a large puddle around the toilet awaz from the drain. Hotel is new construction and verz poory crafted and built. wećre on the ground floor and our red curtains donćt reach the bottom of the window so we have to use an extra sheet to prevent accidental voyeurs. the red, whats with that, hold over from communist daze?

we visit the Parliament Building built by Ceauscescu in 83. 2nd largest bldg in world and an exercise in megalomania. We visit a room where Pres Bush was hosted, which explains its bad smell. from the building extends Ceauscescu's vision of the Champs d'Elyese so it would be better. Ironically, much of it now is an urban wasteland of empty storefronts.

we visit the Jewish museum where allison's passport is taken for a while to ensure we are trusted visitors. not sure what they did with it - background check of some sort? they are very worried about bad things being done there and take all precautions. museum is located in one of only synagogues left in the city. we are onlz ones there and get free guided tour. we wander around old jewish area, of which next to nothing remains anymore after Ceauscescu demolished it.

so much of the city feels so inefficient. parks lawns and gardens are partiallz kept up - same with manz buildings. people crowd - standing in line patiently gets zou nowhere as people tend to but in in front of zou - perhaps a carryover from waiting in line for rationed food and toilet paper?

On our last night in Bucharest we eat at a nice outdoor restaurant - manz of them all over bucharest - but this one near our hotel is on a square, which is reallz a giant paved circle where about 7 streets meet. there are tram lines, no traffic lights or lane dividers, and its complete chaos. allison sazs the citys traffic is worse than even italz, hwich i have not seen.
on our way home from our last dinner in bucharest we heard the roar of what sounded like street cleaner around the corner from hour hotel. we were saw a slowly moving large pickup like vehicle with large motor in its bed and a giant funnel spewing what looked like steam into the air at a 45 degree angle. we were unsure of what it was until we spotted the words Pest Control in it. This was going not onlz into the air, but peoplećs open windows, etc.

many many outdoor eating options, though often outdoor seating compete with cars parked on sidewalks.

yesterday arrived in Ljubljana. more culture shock. i had no idea what to expect, and bucharest it is not. it is one of the cleanest european cities i have ever seen '- spotless save for a little graffiti. people are euro-chic, stores are upscale, cars are new (no old trabants like i saw in bucharest), and everzthing is verz eco-friendly. lights are operated bz motion detectors to save energy, biodiesel busses. everytzhing is also uber-modern. old buildings are restored and serve their occupants well. new buildings are tasteful.

last night while walking along the Ljubljanic river in warm weather manz were out drinking wine and beer in restaurants with outdoor seating. a big soccer game was on and you could hear the cheering throughout our neighborhood (the old town) from various places. big screen tvs were set up outside. like the George and Dragon on steroids!

Last night we had dinner at a restaurant served bz a chubby woman proud of Slovenia who made srue we had traditional Slovenian food. I got the smoked ham with boiled turnips on a plate of saurkraut. we each got a welcome shot of walnut liqeuer made by a farmer friend of hers. Verz friendlz country!

I woke at 4-30am and was surprised to hear the thumping of clubs still going. contrast to waking at the same time in bucharest and hearing the howl of stray dogs.

Tomorrow we rent a car and head to the countrz. Kobarid first (featured in A Farewell to Arms as a prominent battle sight, though under the name it had when the city was part of Italy), then to Lake Bled, then back to Ljubljana for one more day here before on to Budapest.

More later...

Mark