Hello!
I am tired so writing in brain dump mode on euro kezboard with the z where the whz should be.
After Sighisoara took train back to Bucharest for two days. Bucharest after being in the Transylvanian country is a shock. Our cab driver at the Bucharest train station knows not of our hotel - his friend speaks english and explains where it is then takes a moment to warn us our hotel is in a bad area with lots of gypsies who make it unsafe. we find this not to be the case - fortunatelz. however, the hotel is the epitome of tacky. red decor all over the place, a shower like a cylander with a radio, black light, and water spouts going in all directions, including a bodet (sp?) that does nothing useful. water leaks out of the shower and collects in a large puddle around the toilet awaz from the drain. Hotel is new construction and verz poory crafted and built. wećre on the ground floor and our red curtains donćt reach the bottom of the window so we have to use an extra sheet to prevent accidental voyeurs. the red, whats with that, hold over from communist daze?
we visit the Parliament Building built by Ceauscescu in 83. 2nd largest bldg in world and an exercise in megalomania. We visit a room where Pres Bush was hosted, which explains its bad smell. from the building extends Ceauscescu's vision of the Champs d'Elyese so it would be better. Ironically, much of it now is an urban wasteland of empty storefronts.
we visit the Jewish museum where allison's passport is taken for a while to ensure we are trusted visitors. not sure what they did with it - background check of some sort? they are very worried about bad things being done there and take all precautions. museum is located in one of only synagogues left in the city. we are onlz ones there and get free guided tour. we wander around old jewish area, of which next to nothing remains anymore after Ceauscescu demolished it.
so much of the city feels so inefficient. parks lawns and gardens are partiallz kept up - same with manz buildings. people crowd - standing in line patiently gets zou nowhere as people tend to but in in front of zou - perhaps a carryover from waiting in line for rationed food and toilet paper?
On our last night in Bucharest we eat at a nice outdoor restaurant - manz of them all over bucharest - but this one near our hotel is on a square, which is reallz a giant paved circle where about 7 streets meet. there are tram lines, no traffic lights or lane dividers, and its complete chaos. allison sazs the citys traffic is worse than even italz, hwich i have not seen.
on our way home from our last dinner in bucharest we heard the roar of what sounded like street cleaner around the corner from hour hotel. we were saw a slowly moving large pickup like vehicle with large motor in its bed and a giant funnel spewing what looked like steam into the air at a 45 degree angle. we were unsure of what it was until we spotted the words Pest Control in it. This was going not onlz into the air, but peoplećs open windows, etc.
many many outdoor eating options, though often outdoor seating compete with cars parked on sidewalks.
yesterday arrived in Ljubljana. more culture shock. i had no idea what to expect, and bucharest it is not. it is one of the cleanest european cities i have ever seen '- spotless save for a little graffiti. people are euro-chic, stores are upscale, cars are new (no old trabants like i saw in bucharest), and everzthing is verz eco-friendly. lights are operated bz motion detectors to save energy, biodiesel busses. everytzhing is also uber-modern. old buildings are restored and serve their occupants well. new buildings are tasteful.
last night while walking along the Ljubljanic river in warm weather manz were out drinking wine and beer in restaurants with outdoor seating. a big soccer game was on and you could hear the cheering throughout our neighborhood (the old town) from various places. big screen tvs were set up outside. like the George and Dragon on steroids!
Last night we had dinner at a restaurant served bz a chubby woman proud of Slovenia who made srue we had traditional Slovenian food. I got the smoked ham with boiled turnips on a plate of saurkraut. we each got a welcome shot of walnut liqeuer made by a farmer friend of hers. Verz friendlz country!
I woke at 4-30am and was surprised to hear the thumping of clubs still going. contrast to waking at the same time in bucharest and hearing the howl of stray dogs.
Tomorrow we rent a car and head to the countrz. Kobarid first (featured in A Farewell to Arms as a prominent battle sight, though under the name it had when the city was part of Italy), then to Lake Bled, then back to Ljubljana for one more day here before on to Budapest.
More later...
Mark
Thursday, May 24, 2007
Sunday, May 20, 2007
Ugh
Forgive all typo's in these posts - pressed for time on internet and therefore unable to edit. Also - suceava is pronounced Soo-CHAW-vah - not what I wrote before.
Ok - gotta get out of this smokey internet cafe.
Mark
Ok - gotta get out of this smokey internet cafe.
Mark
From Sighisoara
... THe lightning storm took out the internet provider in Suceava (pronounced SOO-cheva). No internet until found internet cafe in Sighisoara (Si-gee-shwah- rah) just now.
Our hostess in Suceava is Monika - very sweet and giving - who owns High Class Hostel. Highly recommend. Her place is outside the city (for now - she's moving over summer into space closer to city). She serves breakfast with eggs and unpasteurized milk from her neighbor. Yummm! We also ate her homemade dinner for two nights - delicious chicken shnitzel (sp?) one night and pickeled beans and sausage the next.
Monika drove Allison and I thorugh the Carpathean Mtns in the Bukovina region to see the four primary painted monestaries. Amazingly beautiful buildings painted on the outside in the 15th-16th centuries. It's amazing how the paint has lasted on most of them ( southern side excepted due to sun exposure). All are Orthodox churches. Monika knows many nuns at the monasteries, and they all seem very sweet. By chance, our tour happened on a h oly day (short memory! - Day of Enunciation?) so we witnessed portion of a Mass outdoors and many country folk enjoying their neighbors' company since they don't work on this day.
Monika tells us that in the 80's Ceaucuscu (sp?) attempted systematization of living quarters, which uprooted hords of citizens. They were told that part of hte move involved eliminating pets. Undestandably, most people had a hard time putting their pets to sleep and instead let their pets (almost all dogs) go - thus began the stray dog problem!
While at the High Class Hostel we met one of hte writers for the Rough Guide book on Romania, Tim - good chap - thanks for the offer for a few Lei at the train station!
May 19 - Catch train to Brasov, the Pague of Romania some say. Monika arranges a place for us with Gabriel, who has a very nice hostel in the old town that is brand new - so new that we were all alone in a giant room - first time not in two single beds - and iwth the common bath all to ourselves. This night is our "unplanned" night on the way from Suceava to Sighisoara.
In Romania there are two trains - Rapid and Intercity - contrary to their names, the latter is faster and much nicer. We rode the Rapid from Suceava to Brasov - 8 hrs - and it felt rickety with old rusty cars and lights that did absolutely nothing when passing thorugh a tunnel. The ride however, went through amazing country scenes - village after village, each with an orthodox church in its center. We saw countless farmers doing manual labor - next to zero tractors or other motorized help - and horse-drawn carts. LIke a time warp.
Brief aside - this reminds me of the Roma (Gypsies) who live ont he road to Monika's place- we saw them racing their carts with children who looked absolutely terrified. Roma are not at all well-liked here, and Roma children and adults alike are seen often begging. At first you are sad for them, but eventually numbed and instead focus on keeping all your belongings with you.
Back to Brasov - lovely city - old town encased in an old Citadel. Black Church, so named because of a fire - is one of the more beautiful churches (like Roma, one becomes numb to them as well after you see so many, despite their beauty). There are two old gates that still stand to the citadel, and one, Catherine's Gate, looks like it came out of Disneyland. Speaking of, Castle Bran, which is falsely advertised as Dracula's Castle, was just returned to the Germans and there is rumor of Disney purchasing it. Yeesh. We did not go there.
Brasov was a brief stay - at 3p yesterday we caught train to Sighisoara. Very small town with a spectacularly well preserved citadel. We are finally at a real hotel, Casa Wagner, which is very nice and inside the citadel. Yesterday evening we walked just outside hte citadel and found several young 10-12 yr old boys playing. We took their photo and htey started to pose for us. We showed them their picture with our digital cameras and they were enthralled! A minute later a woman approached us. She couldn't speak English but we figured out she si the mother of one of the boys and would like a photo. So then, we had to find a teenager who could write - we figured out sh e is illiterate - her address in our book - we will send her photos of her boy with his friends hamming it up for us.
Yesterday we also had one drink in the house in which Vlad Tepes was born. Very touristy and expensive, but a lovely house.
Today - May 20 - sightseeing in Sighisoara - nothing to really write about htat isn't already in the tour books. Though we were able to sample apple, pear, and plum brandy, the latter of which is ALL OVER the novel Dracula, in a quaint small distillery. That stuff packs a wicked punch! Speaking of, Dracula is of course everywhere - it's a bit annoying, but what are you gonna do?
Should go - tomorrow back to Bucharest by Intercity Train - next day fly to Ljubljana where our Slovenian adventure will begin.
Thanks for reading!
Mark
Our hostess in Suceava is Monika - very sweet and giving - who owns High Class Hostel. Highly recommend. Her place is outside the city (for now - she's moving over summer into space closer to city). She serves breakfast with eggs and unpasteurized milk from her neighbor. Yummm! We also ate her homemade dinner for two nights - delicious chicken shnitzel (sp?) one night and pickeled beans and sausage the next.
Monika drove Allison and I thorugh the Carpathean Mtns in the Bukovina region to see the four primary painted monestaries. Amazingly beautiful buildings painted on the outside in the 15th-16th centuries. It's amazing how the paint has lasted on most of them ( southern side excepted due to sun exposure). All are Orthodox churches. Monika knows many nuns at the monasteries, and they all seem very sweet. By chance, our tour happened on a h oly day (short memory! - Day of Enunciation?) so we witnessed portion of a Mass outdoors and many country folk enjoying their neighbors' company since they don't work on this day.
Monika tells us that in the 80's Ceaucuscu (sp?) attempted systematization of living quarters, which uprooted hords of citizens. They were told that part of hte move involved eliminating pets. Undestandably, most people had a hard time putting their pets to sleep and instead let their pets (almost all dogs) go - thus began the stray dog problem!
While at the High Class Hostel we met one of hte writers for the Rough Guide book on Romania, Tim - good chap - thanks for the offer for a few Lei at the train station!
May 19 - Catch train to Brasov, the Pague of Romania some say. Monika arranges a place for us with Gabriel, who has a very nice hostel in the old town that is brand new - so new that we were all alone in a giant room - first time not in two single beds - and iwth the common bath all to ourselves. This night is our "unplanned" night on the way from Suceava to Sighisoara.
In Romania there are two trains - Rapid and Intercity - contrary to their names, the latter is faster and much nicer. We rode the Rapid from Suceava to Brasov - 8 hrs - and it felt rickety with old rusty cars and lights that did absolutely nothing when passing thorugh a tunnel. The ride however, went through amazing country scenes - village after village, each with an orthodox church in its center. We saw countless farmers doing manual labor - next to zero tractors or other motorized help - and horse-drawn carts. LIke a time warp.
Brief aside - this reminds me of the Roma (Gypsies) who live ont he road to Monika's place- we saw them racing their carts with children who looked absolutely terrified. Roma are not at all well-liked here, and Roma children and adults alike are seen often begging. At first you are sad for them, but eventually numbed and instead focus on keeping all your belongings with you.
Back to Brasov - lovely city - old town encased in an old Citadel. Black Church, so named because of a fire - is one of the more beautiful churches (like Roma, one becomes numb to them as well after you see so many, despite their beauty). There are two old gates that still stand to the citadel, and one, Catherine's Gate, looks like it came out of Disneyland. Speaking of, Castle Bran, which is falsely advertised as Dracula's Castle, was just returned to the Germans and there is rumor of Disney purchasing it. Yeesh. We did not go there.
Brasov was a brief stay - at 3p yesterday we caught train to Sighisoara. Very small town with a spectacularly well preserved citadel. We are finally at a real hotel, Casa Wagner, which is very nice and inside the citadel. Yesterday evening we walked just outside hte citadel and found several young 10-12 yr old boys playing. We took their photo and htey started to pose for us. We showed them their picture with our digital cameras and they were enthralled! A minute later a woman approached us. She couldn't speak English but we figured out she si the mother of one of the boys and would like a photo. So then, we had to find a teenager who could write - we figured out sh e is illiterate - her address in our book - we will send her photos of her boy with his friends hamming it up for us.
Yesterday we also had one drink in the house in which Vlad Tepes was born. Very touristy and expensive, but a lovely house.
Today - May 20 - sightseeing in Sighisoara - nothing to really write about htat isn't already in the tour books. Though we were able to sample apple, pear, and plum brandy, the latter of which is ALL OVER the novel Dracula, in a quaint small distillery. That stuff packs a wicked punch! Speaking of, Dracula is of course everywhere - it's a bit annoying, but what are you gonna do?
Should go - tomorrow back to Bucharest by Intercity Train - next day fly to Ljubljana where our Slovenian adventure will begin.
Thanks for reading!
Mark
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
highlights - probably long
Monday morning: Arrived in Amsterdam on Monday at 7am. Checked out Leiden (sp?) during 6 hr layover - 1o minute train ride away. Walked around canals, one historic windmill, ate spinach and cheese pancake-like pastry. Delicious. Old homes lining canal are beautifully quaint, many with a rustic boat tied to backyard dock. Gazillion bikes near train station. All old-style, 100's, if not 1000's, parked in double-decker parking garage for bikes. Roughly half are not locked.
Monday afternoon: Fly to Bucharest at 1pm. Cannot stay awake on plane, though manage to have brief conversation with person seated next to Allison who is Dutch and does a lot of business in Bucharest as a rep for a chicken slaughter machine manufacturer. This guy cycles a lot in Germany and does not own an old-style bike like we say. He says many are community bikes, which is why they're not locked. Ride in on one, ride away on another.
Monday evening: Arrive in Bucharest at 5pm. Groggy. We're very leery of a taxi driver seeking our business, esp when he grabs my luggage and heads to an elevator, away from other taxis. We reluctantly follow. Turns out may taxis are on lower level - and he's on the level. Ha. He swiftly threads the needle thorugh bucharest rush hour traffic, which is horrendous. I've never been in a car with a more reckless driver. He passed a cyclist at well over 100 km/h with no more than a honk - no more than a foot was between the poor biker and our car. Seat belts of course are non-existent. Arrive safely at Hotel Carpati at 6:30. He apologizes that the meter ran up due to traffic. Good guy.
Our room in Bucharest is like a closet w/ two beds. Tiny. Rickety and cool old elevator that is also miniscule. It lurches as it starts and hops when it stops. View from room is good. Weather hot - in upper 80's easily.
We are very close to the center square where the 1989 revolution happened. We see building where Cecsescu (sp?) gave his last speach before being helicoptered away from the roof and shot to death. We wander around this area and marvel at the camoflauged beauty in teh architecure. It's easy to see that the old buildings were once majestic, but now they are covered with a layer of black soot, bricks have fallen off, facades are eroding. I feel like the city is a house with a messy owner who hasn't the resources to put things back together again.
Tuesday: We're awake at 5:30am and outside by 6:15 to see the square before it's awake with the city bustle. Very quiet and peaceful. Unfortunately Allison forgot contacts so we find optometrist which opens at 10am.
At 7am we enjoy large complimentary breakfast in hotel of meat meat meat, including hot dogs with mustard. In the 80s meat was very difficult to find so they appear to be making up for lost time.
Before we leave the hotel the person behind the counter advises us to take a ciruitous route to the square, opposite of how we went night before. I ask why, and she replied becuase of the dogs. I notice dogs in a parking lot the day before and was aware of a stray dog problem. She said they frequenty bite, and our guide book says rabies is a real issue. We avoid that route for rest of our stay. I am highly aware of stray dogs and they tug at the old heart strings. They look so sad. Amazingly they're in Suceava, where I am now, a small town in north romania, also. I saw one today with a grotesque goiter dangling from its chest and with no hair on its tail. So sad!
Much walking to day and a lesson in the Metro. We buy train ticket (for 6am!!) which got us to Suceava today. I ask if we can pay by Visa and get laughed at. Most prices here are in Lei, though they accept Euros, and often do not take credit cards. Then fail to understand how to use the metro ticket and are escorted by a disgruntled guard through a security gate and allowed to ride the subway. The metro was built in 1979, most likely w/ US money given to Romania for their resistance to USSR troops when we thought Ceucescu was a pretty good fellow.
[as I type, thunder storms are starting - very cool].
We visit the Village Museum with a gazillion old buildings from 14th century forward from all over the Romanian area. Fascinating works that were relocated from their original locations.
Next the Peasant Museum with a huge inventory of artifacts from the common people. Many textiles from Romanian peasants over the centuries, as well as windmills, a church, clothing, tiles from stoves, and many decorated eggs. Amazing stuff.
Uh oh - i'm asked to stop internet use due to lighting. More later.
Mark
Monday afternoon: Fly to Bucharest at 1pm. Cannot stay awake on plane, though manage to have brief conversation with person seated next to Allison who is Dutch and does a lot of business in Bucharest as a rep for a chicken slaughter machine manufacturer. This guy cycles a lot in Germany and does not own an old-style bike like we say. He says many are community bikes, which is why they're not locked. Ride in on one, ride away on another.
Monday evening: Arrive in Bucharest at 5pm. Groggy. We're very leery of a taxi driver seeking our business, esp when he grabs my luggage and heads to an elevator, away from other taxis. We reluctantly follow. Turns out may taxis are on lower level - and he's on the level. Ha. He swiftly threads the needle thorugh bucharest rush hour traffic, which is horrendous. I've never been in a car with a more reckless driver. He passed a cyclist at well over 100 km/h with no more than a honk - no more than a foot was between the poor biker and our car. Seat belts of course are non-existent. Arrive safely at Hotel Carpati at 6:30. He apologizes that the meter ran up due to traffic. Good guy.
Our room in Bucharest is like a closet w/ two beds. Tiny. Rickety and cool old elevator that is also miniscule. It lurches as it starts and hops when it stops. View from room is good. Weather hot - in upper 80's easily.
We are very close to the center square where the 1989 revolution happened. We see building where Cecsescu (sp?) gave his last speach before being helicoptered away from the roof and shot to death. We wander around this area and marvel at the camoflauged beauty in teh architecure. It's easy to see that the old buildings were once majestic, but now they are covered with a layer of black soot, bricks have fallen off, facades are eroding. I feel like the city is a house with a messy owner who hasn't the resources to put things back together again.
Tuesday: We're awake at 5:30am and outside by 6:15 to see the square before it's awake with the city bustle. Very quiet and peaceful. Unfortunately Allison forgot contacts so we find optometrist which opens at 10am.
At 7am we enjoy large complimentary breakfast in hotel of meat meat meat, including hot dogs with mustard. In the 80s meat was very difficult to find so they appear to be making up for lost time.
Before we leave the hotel the person behind the counter advises us to take a ciruitous route to the square, opposite of how we went night before. I ask why, and she replied becuase of the dogs. I notice dogs in a parking lot the day before and was aware of a stray dog problem. She said they frequenty bite, and our guide book says rabies is a real issue. We avoid that route for rest of our stay. I am highly aware of stray dogs and they tug at the old heart strings. They look so sad. Amazingly they're in Suceava, where I am now, a small town in north romania, also. I saw one today with a grotesque goiter dangling from its chest and with no hair on its tail. So sad!
Much walking to day and a lesson in the Metro. We buy train ticket (for 6am!!) which got us to Suceava today. I ask if we can pay by Visa and get laughed at. Most prices here are in Lei, though they accept Euros, and often do not take credit cards. Then fail to understand how to use the metro ticket and are escorted by a disgruntled guard through a security gate and allowed to ride the subway. The metro was built in 1979, most likely w/ US money given to Romania for their resistance to USSR troops when we thought Ceucescu was a pretty good fellow.
[as I type, thunder storms are starting - very cool].
We visit the Village Museum with a gazillion old buildings from 14th century forward from all over the Romanian area. Fascinating works that were relocated from their original locations.
Next the Peasant Museum with a huge inventory of artifacts from the common people. Many textiles from Romanian peasants over the centuries, as well as windmills, a church, clothing, tiles from stoves, and many decorated eggs. Amazing stuff.
Uh oh - i'm asked to stop internet use due to lighting. More later.
Mark
Monday, May 14, 2007
Arrived in Amsterdam
It's 11:18am Monday morning here, or 2:18am your time. We arrived safely and took a train in to Leiden for a walk around canals and some yummy spinach and cheese pancake-like pastry. Off to Bucharest by plane in about 90 min.
More later
Mark & Allison
More later
Mark & Allison
Friday, May 11, 2007
Forgot the Chicago portion
June 1 -- fly to Chicago from Budapest
June 1 -- fancy Chicago Zoo fundraiser (if we can stay awake)
June 2 -- Chicago Cubs game at Wrigley Field
June 2 night -- 40th birthday party for friend of Allison
June 3 -- fly home from Chicago
June 4 -- Sleep
June 5 -- Mark turns 40
Follow along with our itinerary!
This is more for our benefit in case we lose our information. Hence all the phone numbers, prices, emails, etc.
May 14, 15 –
Hotel Carpati
No. 16,
Tel. 0040 (021) 3.150.140
Fax. 0040 (021) 312.18.57
e-mail: rezervari@hotelcarpatibucuresti.ro
http://www.hotelcarpatibucuresti.ro/index.php?l=2
48 Euro/night
May 16, 17 – Suceava
Monika’s High Class Hostel
(0040) (0) 742 99 01 07
Landline:(0040) (0) 230 52 52 13
May 18 – TBD
May 19, 20 – Sighisoara
Casa Wagner
Str. Piata Cetatii Nr. 7
Sighisoara, RO
Tel: +40-265-50 60 14
Fax: +40-265-50 60 15
Mobil: +40-744-53 72 39
60 Euros
May 21, 22 –
Hotel Suter Inn
Aleea Suter 3
79 Euro/single room/night
The price of the room includes:
Breakfast and taxes.
Estimated time of check-in: ?
Reservation guaranteed: by AmEx
+4021 411 66 90
http://www.hotel.suter.inn.tourneo.ro/F_New/
May 23 – Fly to
CZECH AIRLINES CSA 23MAY BUCHAREST PRAGUE OK 805 WEDNESDAY OTOPENI INTL RUZYNEM ECONOMY AIRCRAFT: AIRBUS INDUSTRIE A320-100/200
RESERVATION CONFIRMED CZECH AIRLINES CSA 23MAY PRAGUE LJUBLJANA OK 828 WEDNESDAY RUZYNE BRNIK
M ECONOMY AIRCRAFT: AEROSPATIALE/ALENIA ATR 42-300RESERVATION CONFIRMED RESERVATION NUMBER(S) OK/YT7KN May 23, 24 –
Hotel Emonec
Postal address:
Wolfova 12,
SI-1000
74 euro/night
In case you will arrive later then at 15.00 please contact our reception
desk by phone 00 386 1 200 15 20 and we will keep your reservation longer.
May 24 –
Rent car
Voucher Number US2497925 – 1
Avis
25-May-07 – 29-May-07
2 Cufarjeva
Tel: 386 1 430 80 10
Fax: 386 1 430 80 14
May 25 – Kobarid
Hotel Hvala
HOTEL HVALA - RESTAVRACIJA TOPLI VAL Trg svobode 1, SLO - 5222
KOBARID
Tel.: + 386 ( 0 ) 5 38 99 300
Fax: + 386 ( 0 ) 5 38 85 322
e-mail: topli.val@siol.net
94 Euros/night
May 26,
Garni Hotel Jadran
C. svobode 12
4260
Tel.: +386 4 579 10 00
Fax: +386 4 574 18 41
E-mail: info@hotel-toplice.com
http://www.hotel-jadran-bled.com/index.html
96 Euro/night
May 28 –
Hotel Emonec
May 29, 30, 31 –
Hotel Hold
V Hold utca 5 1054
Tel: 1 472 0480 (info)
Tel: 1 472 0484 (info)
Email: info@hotelhold.hu
Web: http://www.hotelhold.hu
88 Euro/night
The Hold is a 5min walk due east of Szabadság tér.
REVIEW The wonderful 28-room Hotel 'Moon' is an excellent choice if you want to stay in an affordable and romantic hotel right in the centre of town. If you can, try to book room 114.
Housed in what was once a Jewish school (note the Stars of David above two of the 1st-floor windows), the Hold has rooms on two floors - there is no lift - which look down onto a central covered courtyard or onto Hold utca. Some of the former are narrow and, because of their position, capture little natural light. The latter are larger and lighter and some contain period furniture. The suites have balconies, and there are a couple of fine outlets, including a cellar restaurant serving Hungarian specialities and a cafe in the courtyard, which is very pleasant in the warmer months. Security is the least of your concerns here; the area is riddled with embassies, including the mammoth (and barricaded) American one on Szabadság tér.
AUTHOR EXPERIENCE Some of the city's most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings, including the former Postal Savings Bank (1901), are on Hold utca.
CURIOUS FACT Hold utca, which the US Embassy backs onto, was named
TRANSPORT DETAILS The Hold is a 5min walk due east of Szabadság tér.
Monday, May 7, 2007
Six days to go
Five days, 11 hours, and 45 minutes from now we'll be on the plane to Bucharest via Amsterdam. Almost all preparations are done - hotels, train from Ljubljana to Budapest, flights. Biggest unknown is northern Romania in the Suceava region. We're staying at the High Class Hostel in Suceava. The town is supposed to be less than exciting, but just outside it are the wonderul painted monasteries. That is where our hostel is, also.
More later...
More later...
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